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30th March, 2001
Almost Black Skins Of Coolies As Loads Exchanged On Lorries: Eat Tins Congee Then Take Motorbike Taxi. Driver Free Wheels Down Slopes. Zhong's Mother Prepares Meal In Longzhou:
July, 1993
The almost black bodies of coolies were running with sweat in "No-Mans-Land" which was a meeting point for lorries from China and Vietnam where loads were exchanged between them. Some coolies, with their almost black skins and sweat pouring off their bodies, were transferring large bales of wool. Drivers were sitting in the shade of trees playing cards and two men cut salvaged shaded glass for lorry and car windows. We passed through the Chinese controls easily then sat by the exit gate eating tins of congee, to wait for a bus to Ping Xiang. Some time later, with no sign of buses, we took "motorbike-taxis" further down the road to a junction on a bus route. Xiu rode pillion on one motorbike, I sat behind the driver on another motorbike with Zhong as the second passenger behind me, for a short journey which proved quite exciting. The driver would free-wheel down any slope he came to then slip the bike into gear just before he arrived at the bottom.
We caught a crowded service bus to Ping Xiang, standing all the way with my head about two inches from the ceiling, so I stooped down on any uneven parts of the road and on bends, but arrived in Ping Xiang with an undamaged head. In Ping Xiang we were lucky enough to see the same minibus which had brought us from Longzhou so we hired him for the return journey and were joined by five other passengers. Zhong's mother was very surprised to see us when we got back to Longzhou but quickly prepared a delicious meal for us.
You might ask, "Where are the photos?", and the simple answer is that on this day I did not take any ! So what next ? The Group Leader says I must rejoin the 1987 tour, so I'll see you in Nanjing.
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